I’ve been told that regular incandescent bulbs have an inrush of up to 16 times it’s steady current in the few milliseconds after being turned on due to the filament needing to be heated up.
I’m just wondering if it’s less for LEDs if not I will have to rewire with a different gauge.
Hi there,
I am trying to program a microprocessor in C to do a simple test for a sensor system. The chip takes in 3 values from three different pins and then measures them through the use of the A/D converter. These stored values are then compared to preset values and certain pins are turned high or low as a result. These high or low pins will light LEDs which ultimately are the output and tell the user what the reading is.
The specific model of the chip is the PIC16F684 and the specific pins layout (such as RA0) can be found online.This is a school project and is due in less than a week.
I am very new to programming and created this with the help of the book that came with the micon ("123 PIC microcontroller programs for the Evil Genius"), so peculiar expressions are not my idea. It compiles fine, however when we test it in modeled circuit it does nothing.
Can someone tell me what is wrong here or how I could do this another way??
The program is found below.
Thank you very much..
#include <pic.h>
/* APSC 230 program
*/
__CONFIG(INTIO & WDTDIS & PWRTEN & MCLRDIS & UNPROTECT & UNPROTECT & BORDIS & IESODIS & FCMDIS);
int ADCValue0 = 0;
int ADCValue1 = 0;
int ADCValue2 = 0;
int HIGHPH = 11010010; //4210 in binary = high voltage threshold for sensor
int LOWPH = 1000110; //70 in binary = low voltage threshold for sensor
int HIGHCl = 10010110; //150 in binary = high voltage threshold for FCL and TCL
main()
{
PORTC = 0;
CMCON0 = 7; //Comparators off
ANSEL = 0b00001111;// enable RA0 RA1 RA2 and RA3 analogue inputs
ADCON0 = 0b000000001; //Turn on the ADC
// bit 7 – left justified sample
// bit 6 – Use VDD
// bit 4:2- Channel 0, i.e. pin RA0
// bit 1 – Do not Start
// bit 0 – Turn on ADC, see pg 94..
ADCON1 = 0b001110000; // Select the internal RC Clock
ADCON0 = ADCON0 | (1 << 1); // Could also be "GODONE = 1;"
while(!GODONE)// wait for ADC to complete
ADCValue0 = ADRESH; //Save sample value after operation
while (1 == 1)
{
if (ADCValue0 > HIGHPH)
{
RA5 = 1;
RC5 = 0;
RA4 = 0;//High pH LED turned on
}
else if (ADCValue1 < LOWPH)
{
RA5 = 0;
RC5 = 1;
RA4 = 0;
// Low pH LED turned on
}
else
{
RA5 = 1;
RC5 = 0;
RA4 = 1; // Safe pH LED Turned on
}
}
ADCON0 = 0b000001001; //Turn on the ADC
// bit 7 – left justified sample
// bit 6 – Use VDD <<<<<<<< or could i use RA1 as vref???? if so use bit 6 = 1 for RA1 as vref
// bit 4:2- Channel 1, i.e. pin RA2
// bit 1 – Do not Start
// bit 0 – Turn on ADC, see pg 94..
ADCON1 = 0b001110000; // Select the internal RC Clock
ADCON0 = ADCON0 | (1 << 1); // Could also be "GODONE = 1;"
while(!GODONE)// wait for ADC to complete
ADCValue1 = ADRESH; //Save sample value after operation
while (1 == 1)
{
if ((ADCValue1 > HIGHCl) )
{
RC0 = 1;//High FCl LED turned on
RC1 = 0;
}
else
{
RC0 = 0;
RC1 = 1; // Safe pH LED Turned on
}
}
ADCON0 = 0b000010001; //Turn on the ADC
// bit 7 – left justified sample
// bit 6 – Use VDD
// bit 4:2- Channel 2, i.e. pin RA3
// bit 1 – Do not Start
// bit 0 – Turn on ADC, see pg 94..
ADCON1 = 0b001110000; // Select the internal RC Clock
ADCON0 = ADCON0 | (1 << 1); // Could also be "GODONE = 1;"
while(!GODONE)// wait for ADC to complete
ADCValue2 = ADRESH; //Save sample value after operation
while (1 == 1)
{
if ((ADCValue2 > HIGHCl) )
{
RC4 = 1;
RC3 = 0;//High TCl LED turned on
}
else
{
RC4 = 0;
RC3 = 1; // Safe TCl LED turned on
}
}
}
I have an ’04 TL, first year they came out. Fully loaded and everything, but the damn rear driver tail light leds are burnt. Not all of them, but 4. It is extremely noticeable, but I have seen them flicker on/off. How would I fix this myself?
I need to find a relatively cost effective way to measure the wavelength of red LED lights. I need to test several to find their wavelength range, then purchase more red LEDs, and measure them so I can keep the ones that fall within my wavelength range, and discard the others. This is for a machine that picks up red light from a relatively specific range, and the LEDs on it currently have lost strength (many are from the early 90s, some even older). I need to replace the existing LEDs with others of compatible wavelength. Also, in keeping with my explanation, red LEDs with weakened strength would still have the same wavelength light, but less intensity, correct? Thank you very much to anyone who can help me out with this!
I saw some 4F 5 volt capacitors at my local electronics store (as audio components) pretty cheap (ish). I’m wondering how feasible to use them as backup power in place of heavy batteries? Sure it’ll be a bit more expensive, larger in size, but they should be lighter for the same power stored?
Its mostly of illumination uses, maybe a fan or to power a laptop. I plan on using LEDs and EL lighting. LEDs uses low voltage DC, perfect for the low voltage capacitors. EL require higher voltage, but will run on DC also. Fans I have are mostly 12V type. Some 5V and some 24V also. I haven’t figured out the laptop part yet.
The main reasons I think capacitors are better than batteries:
Lighter,
100k’s or 1m’s of charge/discharge cycles vs a couple years for lead-acid, most batteries will die quick from extremely deep discharges.
no acid. Caps are sealed electrolytic.
no maintenance, they are sealed. In storage they are good for 10-20 years in ideal conditions.
no charging limits- unlike batteries I can charge then as fast or slow as I want.
no discharge limits- batteries have internal resistance, they can get hot from heavy discharge enough to kill themselves. its also a bad thing too, sorta makes charged capacitors a serious handling hazard.
any opinions/reasons why it wouldn’t work?
-thanks
I want to light up my miniature Christmas Town, houses, street lights, etc with a low voltage series of LEDs. How do I do this? How do I figure how many LEDs to how much voltage? Is it similar to a typiical parallel circuit? Thanks.
i wanted to make a simple automatic street light for displaying in college.i dont have much time so i need a simple circuit which is easy to make.what should i use for the street light- LEDs or very very low voltage small bulbs?
I have some old outdoor miniature Christmas lights that have lost their color over the years. Can you spray paint these to get new color? If so, what do I use that handles the heat of the light? (Krylon?). I am gradually replacing outdoor lights with newer, lower energy LEDs, but there’s no sense in throwing out what still works.
ok this is wat i am doing i am wanting to make something special for my gf and i need some help with this. ok i am wanting to get about 50 leds with three different colors in a circuit and i am wanting to put a switch in it as well. i need to know wat i need to hook them up on a bread board. cause i am still kinda new with the circuits and resistors. so plz help me with this i will really apreciate it.
Do these exist? I don’t have a power source even remotely near the 2 small trees that i’d like to light up this summer with twinkle lights. Does anyone know if there is such a thing as lights for tree that don’t run off electricity? I have a very small itty bitty string of LEDs for an indoor fig tree that contains a small power pack attached to it (no need to plug in), but for the life of me i can’t find anything like that on a grander scale for my trees outside. Anyone with any info, i thank you in advance!!!
